Così capita anche che un paio di colleghi ti invitino alla celebrazione del loro nuovo anno, in una tradizione che affonda le proprie radici nello Zoroastrismo, e ti ritrovi in un paesino sperduto, la sera, a camminare nel buio seguendo le note di danze orientali e tendendo l'orecchio ad ascoltare in sottofondo lo scorrere pigro dell'acqua dei canali, e magari sollevare lo sguardo e ritrovare tra le stelle tori, cacciatori e cani da caccia. Così, in questo piazzale lontano da tutto, quasi fosse una dimensione separata dal mondo, infreddolita dall'inverno che la sera ancora è presente, la gente danzava e scavalcava piccoli fuochi sparsi per terra, alla ricerca di felicità e desideri da esprimere. Per scacciare via il pallore ad assorbire dalla forza viva del fuoco il rosso intenso delle sue fiamme. Niente di che, potresti dire... solo gli echi di una festa che altrove, lontano, è probabilmente festeggiata in altri toni,con altri splendori. Ma quel senso di appartenenza innato, quello sì, danzava attorno ai piccoli fuochi, alle spalle di una postazione più o meno improvvisata per far risuonare la musica. E allora seguivo i movimenti ritmici delle persone, le braccia e le mani delle ragazze che nell'aria disegnavano arabeschi sottili come un respiro, il ritmo scandito dagli uomini che, magari sottobraccio, facevano schioccare le dita. Vedevo nella mia mente la danza vorticosa di Matisse... E fissavo il fuoco, che un po' anche mi riscaldava, evocando per un attimo ombre, spiriti e forze incontrollabili, e un po' pensavo a queste realtà tanto diverse, nelle quali e con le quali conviviamo, che possono trasformare una cosa all'apparenza banale in qualcosa di sentito e tanto simbolico da potervisi identificare, senza che a volte ce ne accorgiamo perchè nemmeno arrivano ai nostri occhi.
The ancient Iranians celebrated the last 10 days of the year in their annual obligation feast of all souls, Hamaspathmaedaya (Farvardigan or popularly Forodigan). They believed Foruhars, the guardian angles for humans and also the spirits of dead would come back for reunion. These spirits were entertained as honored guests in their old homes, and were bidden a formal ritual farewell at the dawn of the New Year. The ten-day festival also coincided with festivals celebrating the creation of fire and humans. In Sassanian period the festival was divided into two distinct pentads, known as the lesser and the greater Pentad, or Panji as it is called today. Gradually the belief developed that the 'Lesser Panji' belonged to the souls of children and those who died without sin, whereas 'Greater Panji' was truly for all souls.
Spring housecleaning was carried out and bon fires were set up on the rooftops to welcome the return of the departed souls. Small clay figurines in shape of humans and animals symbolizing all departed relatives and animals were also placed on the rooftops. Zoroastrians today still follow this tradition. Flames were burnt all night to ensure the returning spirits were protected from the forces of Ahriman. This was called Suri festival. There were gatherings in joyful assemblies, with prayers, feasts and communal consumption of ritually blessed food. Rich and poor met together and the occasion was a time of general goodwill when quarrels were made up and friendships renewed.
Iranians today still carry out the spring-cleaning and set up bon fires for only one night on the last Tuesday of the year. Young and old will leap over the fires with songs and gestures of merriment. This festival was not celebrated on this night and in this manner before Islam and might be a combination of different rituals to make them last. Wednesday in Islamic tradition represents a bad omen day with unpleasant consequences. This is contrary to Zoroastrian cosmology where all days were sacred and named after a major deity. By celebrating in this manner Iranians were able to preserve the ancient tradition. The festival is celebrated on Tuesday night to make sure all bad spirits are chased away and Wednesday will pass uneventfully. In rural areas and remote villages flames are still burnt all night on the rooftops and outside the homes, though people have no idea what this is all about.
Today the occasion is accompanied by fire works from locally made firecrackers. There is no religious significance attached to it any more and is a purely secular festival for all Iranians. On the eve before the last Wednesday, bonfires are lit through out the streets and back alleys, or with the more prosperous, inside walled gardens. People leap over the flames while shouting; 'sorkhie tu az man, zardieh man az tu'. Your fiery red color is mine and my sickly yellow paleness is your. This is a purification rite and 'suri' itself means red and fiery.
It is believed that wishes will come true on this night, reminiscent of ancient traditions. Wishes are made and in order to make them come true, it is customary to prepare special foods and distribute them on this night. Noodle soup called 'Ash e Chahar Shanbeh Suri is prepared' and is consumed communally. Every one even strangers passing by will be served with nuts and dried fruits. This treat is called 'Ajeel e Chahar Shanbeh Suri' and is a mixture of seven dried nuts and fruits, pistachios, roasted chic peas, almond, hazelnuts, figs, apricots, and raisins. Local variations apply and the mixture is different according to the location and the group celebrating it.
People who have made wishes will stand at the corner of an intersection, or hide behind walls to listen to conversation by passerby's. If there is anything positive and optimistic in the conversation, the belief is that the wish will come true or there is good fortune to be expected. This is called Fal-Gush meaning 'listening for one's fortune'. The night will end with more fire works and feasts where family and friends meet and with the more modern Iranians music and dance will follow.
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